Incroyables et Merveilleuses, 1813, Merveilleuse, No. 18: Chapeau de paille Garn (...).. 1813

This print by Georges Jacques Gatine, dating from 1813, depicts a woman of the French Directoire period. The title indicates the materials used: straw, crepe, and muslin. The materiality of this image speaks volumes about the society that produced it. The elaborate ruffles and frills, all rendered in delicate detail, would have required countless hours of labor. The muslin fabric itself, likely imported from India, signals global trade networks and colonial exploitation. And the overall aesthetic, with its emphasis on excess and ornamentation, reflects a culture of conspicuous consumption among the elite. Consider the social context: France was emerging from revolution, and these extravagant fashions can be seen as a reaction against the austerity of the preceding years. Yet, the image also hints at underlying tensions, between the wealthy few who could afford such finery and the many who toiled to produce it. Appreciating these aspects invites us to think critically about the relationship between art, craft, and the social forces that shape them.