At torba ilgich late 19th-early 20th century

Curator: Walking up to this textile piece, "At torba ilgich," from the late 19th to early 20th century, presently housed at the Minneapolis Institute of Art, my first thought is "kaleidoscope." It bursts with color on what appears to be a wool field, and it's intricate beyond belief. Editor: I see this decorative panel and my first thought isn't visual but tactile – I want to run my fingers over those silk embroideries! This textile challenges that hierarchy which so often elevates painting over other fiber-based media. How was something like this actually constructed, and for whom? Curator: I'm glad you ask! It seems to come from the Lakai people of Central Asia, an Uzbek group noted for this type of embroidery, known as 'torba ilgich.' Apparently these were used as decorative door hangings for storage bags. What I love is the use of negative space and asymmetry in conjunction with geometric shapes—I’m particularly drawn to the silver motifs, dancing across a very intentional, powerful red field. What a choice of hue! Editor: Interesting! To me, those shapes resemble simplified tools – like a quirky rake head maybe. You have cotton for the backing, silk and wool threads in the brocade, but more importantly, you have the skill and the labor of women; traditionally these complex textiles are a critical element to their economic viability. Imagine the long hours taken producing the work to then display on a storage bag… Curator: Right? All of those little, deliberate choices! A visual symphony—and it speaks to how vital, and how profoundly beautiful, utilitarian objects can be. What appears “decorative” on the surface can house deeper purpose and utility. What do you make of it, now? Editor: Now, I'm considering its function as something both domestic and artistic; was it also some marker of identity or status? Did these crafted adornments reflect individual creativity within prescribed communal standards, what did its construction and display actually signify to its owner and viewers? Fascinating how much lies just beneath the surface!