Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth 1889

John Singer Sargent (1856-1925) was among the most sought-after portraitists in Edwardian England. He captured the personalities of high society, and was known to charge the equivalent of £100,000 for commissions in today's currency. 😱 This oil painting, 'Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth', (1889) depicts an actress in character. Singer Sargent attended the opening night of Shakespeare's Macbeth in London's Lyceum Theatre on 29 December 1888. Upon viewing the renowned actress Ellen Terry (1847-1928) on the stage, he wished to immortalise her performance. 🎭 Here, Singer Sargent illustrates Terry with striking realism at a time of modern visual experimentation. Yet his methods were, in his own way, innovative. The artist favoured the 'alla prima' (wet on wet) technique of applying oil directly to the canvas. This was a departure from traditional methods of underpainting and line sketching before applying paint. 🎨 The famous dress here worn by Ellen Terry is a testament to the skill and labour of its makers. Designed by Alice Comyns Carr (1850-1927), the dress took two years to complete. It consists of crocheted green wool and yarn, accomplished by the talented crocheter Ada Nettleship, covered in beetle elytra (wings). Over a thousand green wings were individually hand sewn into the fabric. These wings acted as jewels, catching the stage lights to emit an ethereal glow. When juxtaposed with the vivid red of Terry's wig, the impression would have been immediately striking. 🪲 As well as providing evidence for the incredible – and often overlooked – skill of craftswomen, the dress embodies the Aesthetic Movement. Its loose-fitting shape and medieval influences are unconventional when considering the corseted styles of Victorian fashion. 👗 'Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth' was eventually purchased by the actor Henry Irving. It was prominently displayed in the Lyceum Theatre until Irving's death in 1905, and can now be viewed in Tate Britain. 🖼️ Between 2009 and 2011, the dress underwent a vital restoration. This improved its damaged condition and preserved the icon of fashion for future generations. Costing over £100,000, the restoration proved controversial in British media. Do you agree with the decision to restore the dress? 💰💭 Editor: Lucy Jude Grantham