Mourning cape by Abraham & Straus

Mourning cape 1895 - 1900

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textile

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textile

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costume

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symbolism

This mourning cape was likely produced in the late 19th or early 20th century by Abraham & Straus, a large department store. It’s made of black lace, ribbon, and fringe, signifying somber elegance during a period of grief. The materials speak volumes about social customs. Strict etiquette dictated specific attire for those in mourning, with black fabrics like crepe and bombazine being essential. The labor involved in creating such an intricate garment would have been considerable. While some elements may have been machine-made, the application of lace and fringe likely involved handwork, either in-house or outsourced. Department stores like Abraham & Straus played a vital role in shaping consumer culture, offering accessible fashion to a growing middle class. This cape illustrates how even in times of mourning, societal expectations and commercial forces intertwined, influencing personal expression through material objects. It blurs the boundaries between fashion, craft, and social ritual.

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