Visiting dress 1867 - 1877

Editor: Here we have Emile Pingat's "Visiting Dress," likely created between 1867 and 1877. It's currently housed at the Met. Looking at this mixed-media textile piece, I’m struck by how structured and almost architectural it seems. What can you tell me about it? Curator: Let's focus on the material and its implications. The elaborate construction, the multiple layers of fabric... What kind of labor do you imagine went into creating something like this? And for whom? Editor: Oh, that's a great question! It seems incredibly time-consuming, with all the ruffles and details. This wasn't ready-to-wear, I'm sure, but couture for someone wealthy, likely. Curator: Precisely. This wasn't just clothing; it was a symbol of status and access to resources. Consider the supply chains required to acquire these materials – the silks, dyes, and skilled labor involved in the dressmaking. It's a material manifestation of power relations within that society. What does that contrast between the sturdy fabric and embellishments say to you? Editor: So it is about controlled luxury... Almost like this exterior protects inner layers? I guess the outside look broadcasts a carefully constructed persona and position. And I'm sure, constricting at the waist... so how does it affect movement? Curator: How might the restrictions imposed by such a garment have affected the wearer’s agency, both physically and socially? Who gets to access mobility, versus performance, even ownership, of class? Editor: Wow, I never thought of it that way. It's much more than just a pretty dress; it embodies power dynamics. Now that I realize it, the textile tells this social class story, and the mixed-media reveals that construction so clearly. Curator: Exactly! We begin to move beyond aesthetics and consider the garment as a product of – and a participant in – a larger socio-economic system. Seeing the material and process changes our interpretation, don't you agree?