Portret van een man in kostuum by George Lodewijk Mulder

Portret van een man in kostuum c. 1860 - 1875

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photography

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portrait

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16_19th-century

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photography

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19th century

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costume

Dimensions height 84 mm, width 51 mm

Curator: Here we have a fascinating photographic portrait, tentatively dated between 1860 and 1875. The museum attributes it to George Lodewijk Mulder, and it is titled "Portret van een man in kostuum", or "Portrait of a Man in Costume". Editor: Immediately, I am struck by the theatrical air of it all. It's almost like a glimpse into a play or a masked ball – but flattened, fossilized by the camera’s eye. The costume itself appears almost touchable, you know? Velvety and decadent in its gloominess. Curator: It speaks volumes about the performative aspect of identity during the 19th century. Mulder captures this gentleman meticulously outfitted, likely reflecting societal aspirations and maybe even class identity. Consider the labor involved; the construction of that costume! It would have been an act of collaborative, skilled artisanship. Editor: Oh, definitely. The craftsmanship must have been painstaking. I mean, think about the sheer amount of detail – those lace ruffles, the embroidered details on the cloak! But looking at him closer, there’s almost a flicker of defiance in his eyes, a subtle questioning of the charade. Curator: Or is that confidence in inhabiting that constructed role? It's possible he’s making a subversive commentary on courtly excesses or is engaging in playful appropriation. Editor: Maybe both! The costume is so clearly, well, a costume. There is an incredible sense of fabricated reality. You get the feeling of someone trying to reach out and touch him only for their hand to come back cold from a picture print, a ghost caught in the glass. Curator: Absolutely, and photography itself as a relatively new medium… its use for portraying such fabricated finery reflects changing societal dynamics. The increasing accessibility of photographic portraiture democratized image production, in a way undermining older, exclusive systems. Editor: It’s curious to consider whether he even commissioned this himself, perhaps to further disseminate an image of prosperity. Even in its manufactured appearance, the image radiates the allure of possibility and escapism. It beckons into a story! Curator: I agree. So much of the visual language in that image hinges on a careful choreography between labor, economic capacity, and an inherent tension of aspiration and material reality. Editor: Which gives us much to reflect on as viewers even now, standing here across time. It reminds me that behind any image, no matter how polished or constructed, there’s a world of tangible making and deeply embedded intentions.

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