Tunic by Chancay

Tunic Possibly 1000 - 1532

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fibre-art, weaving, textile

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fibre-art

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weaving

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textile

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historical fashion

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indigenous-americas

Dimensions 36.8 × 96.5 cm (14 1/2 × 38 in.)

Curator: Immediately striking! It has an earthy solemnity to it, wouldn’t you say? Like witnessing a fragment of ritual or remembrance. Editor: Indeed. This textile, referred to as a "Tunic," and thought to be crafted somewhere between 1000 and 1532, provides insight into the artistic achievements of the Chancay people. This particular example is held at The Art Institute of Chicago. Curator: The frieze of stylized figures, arranged along the bottom, draws me in. The repetition, those ochre and umber tones – they give an almost hypnotic quality. The figures themselves look like stylized birds perhaps? They bring to mind creation myths, or symbolic lineage. Editor: Exactly, and in many Andean cultures, textiles possessed profound symbolic weight. Garments were integral to establishing social roles. The degree of skill reflected a patron's or wearer's status. Weaving, then, functioned as a language. Curator: The very act of creating such a piece would be loaded with intention, wouldn’t it? Each colour, each carefully placed thread holding echoes of tradition and belief. It makes you consider the cultural memory embedded within these threads. Who wore this garment? What stories did it carry on its back? Editor: What makes it interesting is the politics embedded within that symbolic function. Finely woven tunics, like this one, could have been commissioned or gifted as a form of diplomacy or control, subtly imposing Chancay aesthetics within their sphere of influence. Textiles were clearly powerful vectors of social influence. Curator: Yes! We shouldn't simply admire this piece, but interrogate it, understand it within a system of belief and a web of social dynamics. Otherwise we only see a husk of something much deeper and powerful. It asks us to question how we, too, imbue objects with symbolic weight, consciously or otherwise. Editor: Precisely, thinking through the layering of the garment's construction, display, and present exhibition is revealing, indeed. The role of the tunic in the larger scheme is fascinating to me. Thank you for helping bring out such compelling elements, today.

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