Prøveblad med tre mandshoveder 1789

Gerhard Ludvig Lahde created this print of three men’s heads without a known date, preserved at the SMK. The ruff collar around the neck of the man on the left is reminiscent of the late Renaissance period, a symbol of status and formality. Consider the ruff in relation to the broader history of neckwear. In earlier periods, the unadorned neck was a sign of freedom, of openness. With the rise of the elite, the neck became constricted by layers of fabric, almost as though trapped. Think of the Egyptian pharaohs’ elaborate collars, or the chokers worn by women in portraits by Sandro Botticelli. The Renaissance ruff, then, marks a transition, a tension between liberation and restraint. These adornments can be understood as psychological barriers, defenses against the outside world. Yet, their presence also communicates power, a paradox that continues to resonate through the ages in fashion and portraiture.