Lady in ‘Papillons’ 1912 - 1916

Léon Bakst designed this costume for ‘Lady in Papillons’ probably around 1916. He seems to have used watercolour, gouache, and graphite on paper. Look at the edge of that blue skirt. Isn’t it amazing how Bakst allows the blue to bloom outwards with just a hint of definition around the border? This softness contrasts with the frilly trim, giving it that tactile dimension you can almost feel. The ribbons and the ruffles create a feeling of controlled chaos. It seems like Bakst is exploring the tension between control and spontaneity. How much should you define, and how much do you leave up to chance? This reminds me of Sonia Delaunay's work with the Ballets Russes, especially in the way both artists use colour and form to evoke emotion and movement. Like many stage and costume designers, Bakst seems interested in the possibility of ambiguity and multiple interpretations.